Get Your Silver Perfectly Polished in Time for Holiday Dinners

Polishing sterling silver is a task often relegated to the very bottom of the to-do list — until we start thinking about the holiday season and breaking out the “good” servingware. If your butler is (sadly) on permanent hiatus, here’s how to take matters into your own hands and restore shine and luster to your special pieces.

Spending quality time. Jeffrey Herman of Herman Silver Restoration & Conservation in Rhode Island established the Society of American Silversmiths in 1989 and has devoted his career to the fine art and craft of silversmithing. His reputation for silver restoration and conservation has earned him recommendations from curators at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Yale University Art Gallery, auction house experts at Christie’s and Sotheby’s, and beyond.

To begin, Herman says avoid cleaning silver if you are feeling rushed. “I’ve restored many a candelabrum arm that was broken off in haste,” he says. Likewise, he warns against fast-acting solutions that seem too good to be true. Abrasive cleansers may work quickly, but along with the tarnish, they are removing silver as well. “When removing tarnish, always invest more time using a gentle silver polish over getting quicker results with a more abrasive silver polish,” he says.


Prepping the area. Herman advises working on a sturdy surface covered by a cotton towel. “If the work surface is made of wood or other porous material, lay a piece of plastic under the towel,” he says. Next get out the gloves — specifically, untreated cotton gloves or form-fitting nitrile gloves, which aid in providing a good grip on your silver while introducing minimal residue. “Fingerprints contribute to tarnishing,” Herman says.

Before you begin, check to make sure any dried polish from past cleanings has been removed. To do this, run warm water — not hot, Herman says — over the piece and lightly tap out the residue with a damp horsehair or white boar bristle brush like those found at a hardware store. “Never use a dry brush when removing dry polish,” Herman says. “It will create scratches.”


Removing light tarnish. To remove light tarnish, Herman recommends starting with a nonabrasive cleaner, such as diluted Dawn dishwashing liquid (phosphate-free, not lemon-scented), Purell original formula hand sanitizer, Method Glass + Surface Cleaner or Windex Vinegar Multi-Surface Cleaner.

In fact, periodic washing of silver with nonabrasive cleaners will delay the onset of tarnish altogether, and you might be able to avoid using abrasive polishes.

Tarnish is much easier to remove before it has had a chance to build up. “Your silver will show less wear, as it will be exposed to less abrasion than if you wait for more tarnish to form,” Herman says.

He suggests applying hand sanitizer with a soft cotton ball on the silver first, since it is the least abrasive of all the silver cleaning methods. “If the hand sanitizer leaves a residue, rinse it off with warm water or remove it with a moistened cotton towel, then dry immediately to avoid spotting,” he says.


Removing heavy tarnish. If your piece is more tarnished, use a commercial silver cleaner — some of them even provide tarnish protection. “Use the least abrasive product possible,” Herman says. “Polishes that are meant to be washed off are less abrasive, because they use a liquid to suspend the polishing ingredients.”

Herman uses Blitz Silver Shine Polish. He also names 3M Tarni-Shield Silver Polish and Twinkle Silver Polish as safe, effective alternatives.

Use a damp, cellulose sponge to apply the polish; however, if tarnish stubbornly remains, use a large cotton ball or cotton makeup pad with the smallest amount of polish necessary, moving in small circles. Herman warns that using the cotton ball technique with other, stronger polishes will damage the silver finish. Remember, haste makes waste — and patience is a virtue.


Using silver spray. Rick Pushckor, owner of Antique Metal Finishing in Long Beach, California, says that after clients have brought in their silver pieces for replating, he recommends Silver Polish Spray by Hagerty Polish. “We think it’s one of the best ones out there,” he says, “and with the spray it’s easy. You just spray it on and wipe off.” Pushckor warns, however, that once a piece has turned black, “that means it has oxidized, and nothing is going to bring it back after that.” At that point, it’s best to take the piece into a metal refinisher.

What not to use. “All products that have ‘metal polish’ in their name are much too harsh,” Herman says. “Oxidized brass, copper and especially aluminum require greater abrasion for successful results. Silver requires its own special polish to more gently accomplish this job.”

He also warns against using many pantry-style solutions such as toothpaste (avoid “virtually all brands,” he says), Soft Scrub, baking soda and ketchup, which is too acidic.

Fine jeweler and silver maker Tiffany & Co. advises customers against using anything with chlorine or bleach, because these chemicals will also accelerate tarnishing.

Chemical tarnish removers, such as silver dip cleaners, are also a no-go. “They will absolutely ruin the original finish on solid silver and silver plate,” Herman says. “It will quickly strip the shine from silver, leaving a dull, lifeless appearance. They also allow tarnish to form more quickly.”

See how to clean: Hardwood Floors | Marble Countertops and Tile | Glass Showers | Refrigerators | Carpet | Stainless Steel | Windows | Garden Tools | Dishwashers

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